Wednesday, November 6, 2024

Into the Fog – Cambodia blog entry #12

As we neared the top of Bokor Mountain, a large sculpture pierced the fog. Our driver pulled the car over and we disembarked. My inclination was to climb the stairs in front of me and see what that statue was, but K motioned us to go the other way and cross the road. 

Here we found the ruin of the Old Royal Residence, also called Damnak Sla Khmao or Black Palace. It was built of brick and black wood in 1936 as King Sihanouk’s summer residence, where he and other royals could escape from the summer heat. 

Walking around it and inside of it, I thought it was mighty small for a “palace” – one large sitting or gathering room with a bedroom off to each side. 

A tiled bathroom was attached to each bedroom.   

Outside, I could imagine the views on a sunny day, but all I got that day was a wet face.

It looked like there was a kitchen of sorts just on the outside as well. In its day, there may have been more to the building, but time and the elements were not its friend. Also, from research on the internet, I’m sure there were more buildings nearby, creating a true king’s compound. 

As we walked back up the path, a serious rain shower pelted us and the wind attacked our umbrellas. Hippo remained strong and faithful. Best six bucks ever spent and no one would ever mistake me for someone else. 

We shuffled across the road and up the steps to the stature. Yeay Mao or Lok Yeay Mao is an ancient mythical heroine and a divinity in the local popular form of Buddhism in Cambodia. She is recognized mainly as the guardian of coastal provinces of the country. 

The construction of the Lok Yeay Mao statue started in February 2010 and was completed in May 2012. The statue was built of cement, 95 feet tall and 26 feet wide, and sits on the high ground near a cliff on Bokor Mountain. Because of the seasonal rains and winds, she needs to be repaired every two to three years to maintain her shape and color. 

The wind was really picking up by then and the temperature was dropping. We couldn’t wait to get back into our waiting car and continue driving further up the road as the fog enveloped everything. Thicker than pea soup, thicker than my lumpy Thanksgiving gravy.

We came up to a fork in the road, and K announced that there was a fancy resort on that corner. We saw nothing but clouds and gave him a hard time, accusing him of making stuff up.

So, he responded by telling us there was an elephant! And we countered with, no there was a dinosaur. It looked like a scene from Jurassic Park, the continuing rolling fog – anything could be lurking out there. All we needed was dramatic music in the background.

My pictures just didn’t capture the mood. At our next stop, however, I think my camera caught the ambience admirably. 

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